![]() ![]() ![]() Mix 1 part PH Down to about 8 parts distilled water. Pickle - You can buy Pool PH Down (Sodium Bisulfate) in a 2.5kg tub from anywhere that sells pool supplies for around $20-30, and this will last you almost forever. You'll also need a cheap fine-tipped brush. Just replace the borax cone when you have nothing but a nub left. Soldering for jewelry is technically braising, not soldering.įlux - A borax cone and dish is around $20-30 and will last a VERY long time. You can't solder silver for jewelry with a soldering iron and low-temp fluxes. You'll also need a torch if you don't already have one. You can pick up easy solder later once you get into more complicated pieces and have some spare budget. An ounce of both hard and medium will last a very long time and cover most jobs. Like silver, it's sold based on the spot price of the metal from just about any metal supplier. Some on the other hand (like Sif Bronze brazing flux) tend to go very glassy and are a real pig.You need silver solder. ![]() there are brazing fluxes that claim not use borax or boric acid and I suspect possibly that might be a clue to ".residues are readily soluble in warm water perhaps with the help of a soft nylon brush." ![]() I know the difference and am familiar with Cup Alloys and Johnson Matthey (have been using their stuff for more years than I care to remember), just didn't know how to politely tell the guys straying into silver soldering that they are off topic and off tangent - I have precisely described what the topic of the discussion is, but such is the nature of interweb and forums and I am sure they offered in good faith so I am OK That's why I was going to ask you about your comment earlier on, that ".buy some boric acid powder." - are you saying that these ".VERY well respected framebuilders that use nothing more exotic." use only boric acid and nothing else? or do they also have some secret witches brew of their own? you are absolutely correct about borax and boric acid being the usual main components. How?where do I get creamy smooth brazing flux paste that's easy to clean afterwards, and is no more expensive than regular Sifbronze no, I can't find MSDS for I guess fairly obvious reasonsĪnd even those I can find quote components at +/-50% How?where do I get creamy smooth brazing flux paste that's easy to clean afterwards, and is no more expensive than regular Sifbronze flux? Not a problem if you pass this cost to your customer, but for a diy type (on a meagre pension) it soon adds up, so my question is: The only drawback is that it is about 50% more expensive than Sifbronze flux. well it's crapĭid a bit of googling and found LFB Bronze Paste Flux (from Cycle Design USA) - it's creamy, smooth, sticks exactly where you want it and afterwards half an hour in hot water and it's gone. Unfortunately Sifbronze brazing flux was a big disappointment - I wanted to use it as a paste to spread on the tubes I was brazing so I mixed it into something like a paste, but it was lumpy and either too runny or too dry and it didn't stick to where I wanted it to be.Īfterwards there was a business of removing. When I decided to learn brazing (or more specifically fillet brazing, sometimes called bronze welding) I started with Sifbronze No1 rod and Sifbronze brazing flux. ![]()
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